... when I knew I wasn't at home any more.
... when I knew things were different here.
... when I grabbed hold of my husband and muttered something incoherent about this being real.
In a perfectly normal Ilulissat back yard, right next to the washing line... a complete polar bear skin is stretched out to dry.
Of everything I saw in Greenland, in the few days before and the subsequent weeks after this moment, this image has stuck in my head the most clearly. It's the first photo I hunted out when we got home. In many ways, this is the image that defines my experiences: modern houses intertwined with ancient (and alien) traditions. Whatever else I show you over the next couple of weeks, remember this. Greenland may be changing quickly at the moment, but it has by no means lost touch with its Inuit roots.