How have I managed to give you three posts about Greenland (not even counting the one about Greenlandic cake!) while barely mentioning the ice?
The Greenlandic icecap dominates the map, but when you're on the coast (as all the settlements are), you can't usually see it. There are mountains in the way.
Still, there was plenty of ice in Ilulissat. We even camped for a couple of nights within sight of the world-famous icefjord.
It's hard to overstate how impressive the icefjord is. It's 55km long, about 8km wide, and is basically a mass of icebergs frozen together. I wish it was safe to hike on it!
I also learned a little more of what it means to be a UNESCO World Heritage site. I'd always imagined it to be an international version of the "Listed Building" status we have in the UK, where there are legal protections to stop the owner from making certain types of changes without permission. Not quite. Ilulissat Icefjord is registered as a World Heritage site, and that does come with certain conditions attached, but what surprised me was the option to opt out at any time. Surely if we want to protect the heritage of the world, local administrations shouldn't be able to just change their minds? Although I suppose it would be hard to enforce any other way.
We also took a day-trip by boat to Eqip glacier - an actively calving glacier where you can watch big chunks of ice falling into the sea. It was an impressive, looming wall of ice.
If you look closely, you can see the clouds of ice dust... it's hard to photograph, but it was fun to watch.